Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
